Thursday, 1 December 2011

Tips: Washing Your Car by Hand

Washing your car yourself can be a relaxing and satisfying respite, from the concerns of life. You only need car shampoo, a bucket, sponge, tire wax, and some rags. Then go have some fun and here's how;

  • Park the car out of direct sunlight. This prevents premature drying which can leave splotches on the paint.
  • Set everything you will need near the car.
  • Fill a bucket with water and add car shampoo in the quantity directed on its bottle.
  • Fill another bucket with plain water
  • Hose off the car to loosen the dirt. Don't use a strong jet, as this can rub grit over the paint and scratch it.
  • Soak a large sponge in the soapy water, and begin applying it to the car. Do not use a brush on the car body because this will leave little scratches
  • Wash the car section by section, starting at the top, Circle around the car several times, washing lower areas with each round.
  • As you progress, keep the entire car wet, as this will prevent droplets from drying on the paint and leaving water-spots. Dry the car with towels before it air-dries.
  • Scrub the lower body and the wheels last, as these are the dirtiest, grittiest parts. it's a good idea to use a separate cloth on the bottom six inches of the car's body, as this can get especially gritty.
  • Use a wheel-brush for cleaning the openings of the wheels. If the wheels are glossy, use a sponge instead to prevent from scratches. Clean the tire side-walls as well
  • Rinse the bottom of the car vigorously, from various angles, with a spray nozzle.
  • Dry the vehicle with fresh towels. 
  • Remember to vacuum dust or sand at the leg room carpet and seat.
  • When the tire side-wall dry, start applying tire wax to keep it shine.
  • Then you can stand 2-3metres away from your car and see what have you done.

Tuesday, 29 November 2011

All New Proton Car

Proton Holdings Berhad (Proton) announced that they will release new model early next year. It is all new car and not related with Proton Persona. Actually this is the concept car, TUAH that was shown to the public during the KL International Motor Show 2010, but slightly different on the headlamp, bumper, fog lamp side mirror and front grill. At this moment this new car only known as P3-21A code, but Persona R or Espire expected the name given to this car. One thing that make we proud of this car, this model will be equipped with Campro 1.6cc turbo engine in Proton family and it was design by Malaysian itself. This is what Proton Managing Director, Datuk Seri Syed Zainal Abidin Syed Mohamed Tahir said.

This new sedan will be the the first new generation of global models constructed in accordance with the new law and the global regulations.especially on the emissions standards and safety bring to the first, as this sedan will be fitted with 6 air-bags.

Syed Zainal said Proton's latest model will be also produced in China by Hawtai Motor Group Ltd (Hawtai), and have sign a memorandum of understanding (MoU) for further discussion on cooperation between them until December. He said in addition to producing the Exora in China with new design, Hawtai will develop the P3-21A as the left-hand drive vehicles using the brand Hawtai to markets in China and the car will use the same version of the Proton brand for the export market

About the interior and other specification, we don't have any information so far.  Just wait for the launching next year. Hope that this new car still in affordable price for all Malaysians.

Congratulations to Proton.

Latest  picture of P3-21A leaked!!!

Credit to AQAMOHA for pictures
 The name of this new car still in mystery..
The following is a summary of the main specification of  new Proton, P3-21A based on the disclosure by Tun Dr. Mahathir when given the honor to test drive this vehicle.
  • 1.6 litre turbo charged that works as 2.0 litre engine (1.6 CFE turbo bolted I think)
  • Auto speed wiper
  • Auto side door folding mirror - auto flip when parking, auto unflip whne start the engine
  • Start/Stop push button
  • Wiper and headlamp automatic ON when raining and  weather turned dark
  • GPS antena for Navigation System (Maybe available for premium unit only)
  • Impact Sensing Door Lock
  • Continuous Variable Transmission (CVT)
  • Shift lever with tiptronic Mode and Paddle Shifter on Steering Wheel
  • ABS, EBD, ESC and BA
  • Daytime running LED build-in headlamp
  • LED taillamp
  • Side Mirror with Signal light indicator
  • 16inch Sport Rim
  • Soft touch plastic dashboard
  • Keyless entry. Fully remote controlled for central lock/unlocking.
  • Internet ready for online surfing while in the car.
  • PRICE RANGE: RM62k - RM75k.  Launching should be in May 2012.

UPDATE 2!!!        (Friday 23.03.2012)

Full spec of P3-21A leak!!!

I'm not very sure the origin of this information, but I got it from
By reffering to this specifications, Toyota Vios and Honda City totally LOST in this class.. Yeah!!!

Monday, 28 November 2011

Basic Wiring For In Car Entertainment

Basic In Car Entertainment Wiring

Item Needed

  1. Head Unit
  2. Preamp
  3. Subwoofer with box
  4. 4 Channel Power Amp (Optional)
  5. 2 Channel Power Amp or Mono block Power Amp for Sub woofer
  6. Rear Speaker (eg; 3way 6x9 coaxial speaker)
  7. Front speaker or Component set
  8. RCA Cable (4set)
  9. 2 Fuse for power amp
  10. Power Amp's Power Cable
  • Please DO NOT short circuit. 
  • Connect power amp with positive battery terminal ONLY if you confident that you connect it correctly. Refer to user manual  
  • Common Power Amp power terminal
             (+)ve             = Direct to Positive battery terminal, fused
           REM(+)          = Connect to REM (remote) wire of the head unit
           GRD (-)          = Negative; connect directly to body/chasis
  • NEVER connect power amp with positive battery terminal WITHOUT fuse
  • Start music with slow volume
  • RECOMMENDED to use Capacitor for power amp, to avoid battery power drained during music blasting and better current flow to power amp.

Any question, please do not hesitate to email me, or just drop your comment below and i will try to answer it. Thanks

Monday, 21 November 2011

The Important of Volt Meter In Your Car

Most of the old-school car factory installed with analog voltmeter. But most of the modern car nowadays does not equipped with this vital tool. So we need to install it by sending our car to the experts or drive directly to the car accessories because most of the car accessories sell this device.

What is the important of the volt meter? Some automotive enthusiasts just display volt meter as accessories or gadget for a different views of their dashboard. But actually this extra gadget is very important to tell driver about the electrical system circulating in your car is in good condition or otherwise.

Generally volt meter will refer to the voltage output from the alternator and battery. Here are the explanation.

1. Reading taken for alternator voltage output
  • Alternator (part that supply electricity to electronic devices to the whole car) voltage output reading only can be read by volt meter while engine running. Usually while engine running, the reading of the healthy alternator is 14.0 - 14.7volt. (Reading maybe different if we switch on air-conditioner, wiper and headlamp; reading 13.5-13.8volt should be normal)
  • If the reading of the voltmeter while engine running is below 13.0v, mean that you must send your car to the expert as soon as possible. Because why, if your alternator reading is below 13volt, and it decrease to 12, 11 and 10volt, mean that the alternator cannot produce electricity for your car, and when your car need more voltage, but the alternator fail to generate it, of course your car will be loosing power . When voltage drop again to 10, 9 and 8volt, all the accessories will be malfunction and then the engine will be stop working and you will be stranded. 
  • Why this happen? If alternator malfunctions, the voltage output will be drop slowly until it reaches the battery voltage. At this time, engine and other electronic accessories will use the battery power to make it running as usual until the battery power drained because the alternators fail to recharge the battery.
  • The highlight here is; when the reading of the volt meter drop below 13.0volt, and it continuously drop again, better you find workshop or save area to park as soon as possible. Otherwise, you will need to pay a lot of money to tow your car to workshop instead of paying for spare part and labor cost only.

2. Reading taken for battery voltage output.
  • Battery voltage output only can be read by the voltmeter while engine off. Usually, just after you key off the engine, the voltage will be drop from 13.7v and slowly drop to the normal battery voltage 12.7/12.5volt. (this condition happen if your volt meter connect directly to the battery terminal, and not connected to the "ACC" point, if volt meter connected to the "ACC" point, you must make sure the ignition key position to "ON")
  • As I mention above, healthy battery voltage while engine off is around 12.3-12.7volt. To check the battery still in good condition, leave your car for one or two days and check the voltage again without starting the engine. It should be still in range of 12.3-12.7volt. (take note that some of the alarm system that use blinking LED and the alarm always triggered will affect the reading of the volt meter in 0.2-0.3volt if you leave your car for 2-4days without starting the engine)
  • But, if the reading of the voltmeter drop below 12volt after one or two days, mean that the battery need to be replaced with new one because of the battery voltage leaking. Get ready with your budget next month!! (make sure there was no electronic accessories such as in car entertainment system, room lamp, and all the bulb outside still ON while engine OFF"

Analog Volt Meter
See, how this gadget can save your money and time. Without volt meter, you cannot early detect the sign of battery the alternator malfunction. When you can detect as early as you can the problem of your car, you can ready with the budget and find some space for you to send your car to workshop.

The volt meter reading is very accurate if connected directly to the positive and negative terminal. So find the volt meter that can connect directly to battery terminal and you can read it while you are driving.  My suggestion is that you buy volt meter that can be displayed somewhere on your dashboard, connect directly to the negative and batery terminal BUT USE RELAY to make it (voltmeter) OFF also when you take off your car key from ignition. Otherwise, if you are not using relay and connect directly to the battery negative and positive terminal, the chances of the voltmeter draining the battery is there because the voltmeter will ON 24hours and will shorten its live.

Different with voltage stabilizer that build in with meter, this type of prouduct was design to operate 24hours without draining you car battery eventhough connect directly to batery terminal. But most of the aftermarket voltage stabilizer will be installed somewhere in the engine bay, and you cannot read it while driving. Voltage stabilizer also can impove the voltage stablility of you car and increase the battery life. Make sure to buy the original one.

Tuesday, 15 November 2011


For the first time, DUCATI decide to lauch it's new superbike outside Europe and choose Malaysia for the international launching the Monster 795 on the 21st October 2011 in Kuala Lumpur last Friday, in conjunction with the World Motorbike Grand Prix (GP) in Kuala Lumpur.

Spokesperson says Next Bikes, a company under the Naza group of companies, had received 90 orders for the Monster 795 eventhough the launching was not come to time. One of the VIP's at the launch is the nine time world champion of the World Motor GP, Valentino Rossi.

legendary Desmodue, air cooled, Dual Spark L-Twin engine whose 87 hp gives it that unmistakable Ducati sound. Developed for an incredibly flexible power delivery, the Desmodromic engine provides enough torque to exit the most challenging of corners. The impressive torque, typical of the Ducati L-Twin engines, will excite with every twist of the throttle.

Marzocchi forks; Outstanding grip and unbeatable riding comfort are ensured by a 43 mm Marzocchi upside down stanchion fork, which provides 120 mm of suspension travel. 
Sachs rear suspension; At the rear, a Sachs monoshock unit with progressive linkage provide a wide spectrum of both spring and damping settings. 

Lightweight construction; Every carefully selected component of the Monster 795 has a net benefit to the overall light weight of the machine. The dry weight of 161kgs (355lb) has dramatic effects on not just manoeuvrability and ease of use, but also by contributing directly to increased performance, braking and acceleration. 

Lightweight 3-spoke wheels; Lightweight 3-spoke aluminium alloy wheels increase agility and reduce rider effort. The 3.50x17 front wheel wears a 120/60ZR tyre while the 4.50x17 rear wheel runs 160/60ZR rubber. By resisting the temptation to over-tyre the795 for styling’s sake, the end result is light, predictable and confidence inspiring steering qualities at a wide range of speeds with truly outstanding stability.

Brembo brakes; The latest in Brembo braking hardware delivers exceptional braking power front and rear to improve rider safety. At the front, 320mm floating discs are gripped by four-piston, radially mounted callipers, while a 245mm floating rear disc works in combination with a twin-piston calliper. This powerful braking set-up offers unrivalled feel and feedback making the 795 safer across a broader spectrum of riding abilities.

Aluminium swingarm; The GP-style swingarm is chill-cast using aluminium in its most noble form. Gravity cast and heat treated, the component achieves the best mechanical characteristics as well as reduced final weight for improved handling. 

Monster Trellis; An immensely strong but light tubular steel Trellis frame with aluminium rear sub-frame is the visual and structural backbone of the Monster. Delivering unparalleled rigidity with minimal mass, the chassis design is pure Ducati in its ingenuity and simplicity. A separate, all aluminium sub-frame saves weight and adds a pleasing continuity with the aluminium footrest hangers and matte finished swingarm.

Chasis & Engine specification taken from

Saturday, 12 November 2011

General Information Of the Tire Code & Tips of Buying New Tire

Did you know what is the meaning of the "Code" printed on the side wall of the tire. Sometimes we do not know what kind of tires suitable for our use. Usually we just tell the size of the tire to tire shopkeepers, and some just say "change tire" verbally and let the shopkeepers make decisions what tire to use. Inappropriate use of tires with the weight of the vehicle and the speed can lead to tire failure to function properly and may cause accidents. So, here i would like to share with you what is the meaning of the "Tire Code". Just take a few minute to read this article and it would save your money and the most important is your safety.

The "Code" or it standard name "The ISO Metric tire code" is a national tire standards influenced by the The European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation (ETRTO) and the Tire and Rim Association (TRA) .

Let's see one of the example that appear at the side wall of the tire

165/55/R14  72H
Here is the explanation for this code

165 - The "nominal section width" of the tire in millimeters; the widest point from both outer edges.
*some of the tire got letter infront of the first three digit number.. eg: P165 or T165 etc. indicating the intended use or vehicle class for the tire;
          P: Passenger Car
        LT: Light Truck
        ST: Special Trailer
          T: Temporary (restricted usage for "Space-Saver" spare wheels)

55 - The "aspect ratio" of the sidewall height to the total width of the tire, as a percentage (mean 55%)
* to get the height of the sidewall in milimeters;
                        nominal width x (aspect ratio/100)= height of the side wall in milimeters
 example in this case 165/55/R14            165 x 0.55=90.75mm

An optional letter indicating construction of the fabric carcass of the tire:
R - Radial
D - Diagonal
B - bias belt (where the sidewalls are the same material as the tread, leading to a rigid ride)
*mean that, the 165/55/R14 is the Radial fabric carcass (use mostly on the passanger vehicle)

14 - Diameter in inches of the wheel that the tires are designed to fit to the rim

72- Load index (refer to the Standard Load tabel below)
*mean that max load for this tire is 355 kg (780 lb)

H - Speed rating (refer to the speed rating table below)
*mean that max speed for this tire is 210km/h or 130mph

Other Additional Important Information
Treadwear: eg: 240 *the highest number the slowest the thread to be thin/wear
Traction: AA (Highest in Quality), followed by A, B and C
Temperature:  A (whereas the weather are hot)
                     B (Normal Weather)
                     C (Cold Weather)
Manufacturing Week and Year: Example 1411
First two digit number 14: The week of fourteen of the year
Last two digit number 11: Year of 2011
*mean that the tire mark as 1411 was produced on the first week of April 2011

Monday, 31 October 2011

Another Proton Concept Car Will be On The Road Soon..

During the KL International Motor Show (KLIMS) last year (2010), Proton unveiled the three concept car, together with two show cars. All the concept and show car was given a name as Tuah, Lekir, Lekiu, Kasturi and Jebat, taken from the name of the Mallaccan Warrior long time ago.

Among the five, Tuah is Proton new four door sedan concept that strongly hint to be the Proton Persona Replacement model. This model (Tuah) look like more bigger than Toyota Vios and the size maybe similar to Mitsubihsi lancer 2.0GT.  Click here for Proton Persona

From the outside, we can see the LED day light located at the lower side of the headlamp, to be the first Proton model to use it. For the rear taillamp, both left and side combined together with modern long double line red light on it, twin exhaust tip, 18inch sport rim with 225/40R18 tyre, and an aerodynamic roofing slop.

For the powertrain, no information on it so far but some trusted source says that the engine will highly be the new Campro series. Maybe coming soon the 1.8L or 2.0L Campro we just wait patiently and hopefully this car will be on the road by next year (2012).

Lekir or Lotus Europa with a Proton badge

Next: Lekiu or Exora-based SUV concept that uses the Exora’s platform 
Click here for Proton Exora

Next: Kasturi or facelifted Saga     Click here for Proton Saga Facelift

Last: Jebat or Proton Inspira/Mitsubishi Lancer    Click here for Proton Inspira

Proton MSX

At a glance, this car looks like Toyota caldina .. but believe me that this Proton MSX 3.0Litre V6 is owned by Proton base on Lotus APX. Olmost every year proton build a new model. This is a good move for Proton to maintain its reputation as a No. 1 National car maker. Back to topic, I'm not very sure where and when this car was showed, looks like a lot of Malaysian take a look. 

Naturally Aspirated 3.0 V6 engine, this engine manage to generate 224KW of power and 360Nm of torque.With a 0-100 time of 5.9, the best among the Porsche Cayenne S, BMW X6 3.5i, and Nissan Murano. The 250km/h top speed also beaten up three of the top SUV above.

I think this car should be on the road. And by this car, Proton can be more respected among the top world car maker. But maybe the production cost may cause proton to delay the production for open market. Also we don't know how much is the price of this car when it be at the Proton Showroom later, it may be start from RM140,000 - RM250,000. Of couse the market will be at the successful professionals with young-at-heart lifestyle such as businessman and corporate leaders.
But we as Malaysians should be proud of our car maker Proton that can produce this type of car eventhough it still in prototype or concept car. Hopefully this car will be on the road one day.

Very Impressive Izzit.. Go Proton Go..

Sunday, 30 October 2011


Since the launch of new Perodua family Myvi SE 1.5L and Myvi Extreme 1.5L last few months, it continued to have a very stimulating book among the Malaysians. Myvi Extreme 1.5 was launched together with Myvi Special Edition (SE), which also sharing the same 1500litre enginethe largest ever published in the Myvi family. Of course, the tagline "Lagi Best, Lagi Power" refers to this1.5litre engine that will promised you more energetic drive, especially when overtaking and climbing up the hill.

Myvi Extreme 1.5 has a same characteristics to Myvi SE, but Myvi Extreme has more exaggerated, especially on the bodykit parts such as front and rear bumper and spoiler which reveals Myvi Extreme looks more sporty. Very easy to differentiate between SE and Extreme. Extreme got the grey lower lip in front bumper but this sexy lips was not installed at the Myvi SE.
As noted above, both Myvi Extreme and SE is powered by 1.5litre twin-cam engine DVVT given code 3SZ-VE, that is the same engine that was used in the MPV Perodua Alza. The chain driven engine puts out 102 horsepower at 6,000 rpm and 136 Nm of torque from 4.400 rpm, and this power channeled to front wheel through the 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic gearbox. With this horsepower, this Myvi can run from 0-100km/h in just 9.98sec Manual transmission and 12.49sec Automatic transmission.

Let's move to the exterior, of couse the first attractive part is its very sporty front and rear bumper, spoiler, chrome garnish on the door handles, very diffrent from the previous 1.3litre. But this new Myvi still maintain with 14 inch alloy rims but in new design. The headlamp also upgraded to projector headlamp, LED combination rear taillamp, new design and relocation of fog lamp, rectractable side mirror with side turn signal, UV protected glass and tinted film on all glases.

Inside, we can see the one-tone that is all black on the desboard and interior. the steering with audio controll and leather wrapped, chrome inside door handle and leather sporty front seat. The meter also very impressive with an attractive colours combination of white, blue and red and also there are chrome rings thrown in.

Let's move to the In-Car-Audio System (ICE). This Myvi comes with the flush type audio system, the full colour DVD touch screen system build-in with navigation system, Bluetooth and USB port. The body come with carbon fiber look while the lighting also changed to red.

The safety features equipped with this small monster is Dual SRS Airbag for driver and passanger. The most important part to ensure safe driving is the ABS, EBD and BA. this Features will ensure your car will not skidding when cornering especially on the wet road.

From the first impression Myvi 1.5 has got the first place compared to the 1.3 version because of its powerful engine and stylish design. Prices range from RM50,900 (USD$14,138) for the SE manual to RM.61,700 (USD$17,138) for the Extreme automatic transmission.

Friday, 28 October 2011

DIY Engine Cooling System Flush

Many of us do not care about the cleanliness of our engine cooling system. This engine cooling system which consisted of the radiator, water pump, hoses, coolant liquid and also thermostat. If the cooling system is not cleaned or d service, it will cause the dirt settles in the water tank or radiator and the rust will be stick to the radiator and horse’s wall. When rust is more and more, it will clog the water flow, when water is not smooth because of the clogging, it will turn your engine into boiler or in other mean overheating. Generally, overheating will cause thousands of dollars in repairing costs.. In fact, not difficult to clean the cooling system of our car and it can be done by yourself. It is very important to monitor the water level in the radiator regularly and make sure it cleans.

1. To change the water in the radiator, open the "mouse ears" that are located at the bottom of the radiator and let the tank drain. Then put back the "mouse ears" to its position. Aims for removing rust deposit in the radiator. Don't forget to open the radiator main cap.

2. Then, loosen the nut of the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat and then screw the thermostat housing again without thermostat. Open the big hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator on the radiator side. At this time, put back the radiator cap to its position. (Remember to standby the seal gasket for the thermostat housing)

3. Pull the rubber hose from the pipe of your house and put the hose into the hole of the radiator, that should be connect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing just now. Let the pipe water circulate for a 3/4minit inside your car cooling system until the water clear. The pipe water should flow out from the hose that you just disconnect from the radiator.
4. After the clear water flows out, drain the water in the radiators again through a "mouse-ear screw" and rescrew it back after the radiator drained. Then it is time to wash thermostat from rust and dirt. After thermostat is clean, re-enter thermostat in place and connect the hose to the last detach. After all ensured correct and tight, put coolant into the radiator and a little in the radiator water storage tanks. Then add pipe water into the radiator until the radiator is full. It is recommended to use mineral water instead of pipe water.

5. Start the engine for a 2-3minit and add more water into the radiator until full and don't forget to add water into the radiator water storage tanks. Make sure there are no leaks at the joints and screws.

6. And now, your engine cooling system in a fresh mode. Just try it, and Good luck.

Wheel Hub Center Ring/Cone

Your car vibrating after changed to a new rims? tire and rims definitely was not balanced off? Usually workshop personnel knows what to do if customers change to new tires and rims, of course they will be rotated (balancing process). If your car still vibrates even though the tires and rims rotated, check your new rims if there got any space in the middle, I mean in between the hub and the rim. Means that the wheel hub did not fit with the new rims / fully seated on the wheel hub. If this happens, I am sure your vehicle will vibrates at speed range of 90km/h and above.

This problem can be solved  by using "Wheel Hub Center Ring" or better known as the Center cone. Center cone is available in various sizes for fit with. Picture below is an example of Center cone could be found in the market.

Center Ring Cone
Center Cone fitted to the rim
 When the Center Cone installed on your new rims, meaning that there is no more space for the rim to move that causing vibrations. The function of the Center Cone is to fill up the empty space  between rim and wheel hub . The four lug nuts that lock the rim is not sufficient to prevent the rim from shaking when spinning in a high speed . I had been using this on my 14inch rim, and the results was very satisfactory, no more annoying vibration when driving in high speed

Center cone price starts from (Ringgit Malaysia) RM25-RM75 (US$90 - US$270) a piece depending on size and quality. usually only the front rim will be fitted with this, but personally  encouraged to fit it to the rear rims too. Hopefully this post will help to solve the vibration to the car while driving

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